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Leather (aka Distressed Leather)- To achieve an
antiqued look, the base color is obtained by first applying a
lighter color, then going over it with a darker one at varying
degrees. An antiqued or distressed finish and texture will
likely change slightly when cleaned. Some of the desired aged
look can be returned in the refinishing process after
|Nude Bomber (Nu Buck)- A garment style still
very popular today. Aniline dye with a pigmented finish applied
to the skins. Top grain leather is buffed to appear as a suede.
Stains can be difficult to remove. When finishing is required
to disguise stains, the appearance and texture will be altered.
Some of the garments in this style come in pastel colors. The
blues, greens, some reds and other pastels are more susceptible
to oxidation. After cleaning, spray dying may be an option, but
color evenness and texture will change.
|Pigskin- It has very little nap and varies
from skin to skin in color and texture. The fibrous structure
of the skin can allow spots and stains to soak deeply. Pigskin
does not always respond to cleaning and spotting as well as
other leathers. Many of the pigskins use textile pile linings
for extra warmth or to achieve that "shearling look".
|Shearling- Tanned and dressed sheep suede,
bearing wool (or fur) made from the pelts. A slightly harder
feel of the skin is common after cleaning. Hand cleaning is
often used if minimal stains or soil are present.
|Split Cowhide- A heavy feel and durable
appearance. Veins, tick bits or other scars and wounds can be
more evident after cleaning. The imperfections are often hidden
by the manufacturer by using fillers.
|Top Grain- A great motorcycle jacket. Most
popular in black, but a multitude of colors are used. It's a
durable painted finish leather which is fairly easy to care
for. After cleaning, minimal refinishing is required.
|Multi-Color Fashions- Virtually all major
sports teams and major designers are putting together
combinations of leather in different colors. There is always
the possibility that colors will bleed into each other in the
cleaning process. The utmost care is taken to avoid this.
Finishing techniques vary and sometimes hand-painting is
required, at additional cost.
|Athletic Jacket- Almost always a combination
of wool body and leather sleeves. At times reconstituted wool
is used and does not hold up well during the cleaning process.
Sometimes, letters need to be removed and sewn back after
cleaning to prevent dye transfer. After cleaning, we will
refinish the sleeves to return as much of the original color as
possible. Jackets with embroidery can have problems with dye
transfer depending on the thread used.
|Matching Two-Piece Outfit- ALWAYS CLEAN
TWO-PIECE OUTFITS AT THE SAME TIME! Manufacturers seldom use
leather from the same dye lot. Skins may have even come from
different tanners in different countries. If the outfit has
different skin types, i.e. pigskin skirt or cowhide, they are
not likely to match after cleaning.
|Silk Suede- A velvet-like nap finish produced
on leather by abrasive action. Often used for fine shirts,
pants, skirts, etc. rather then outwear. It is soft and the
skins can be thin. The fibrous structure of the skin can allow
spots and stains to soak deeply.
|Lambskin- Lambskin garments have become
increasing popular because of their "buttery smooth" feel.
Popular in an assortment of colors and finishes, cleaning
results can vary. Much of the soft feel comes from the use of
belly skins. Skins taken from these are naturally wrinkled.
They are stretched and have fillers applied during tanning.
These wrinkles will become more apparent after cleaning. The
top grain finishes hold up well to stains. The naked or nappa
finishes can absorb stains, making it more difficult to
process. Lighter color garments can sometimes become darker
after cleaning because the garment will absorb excess oils that
are used in the professional leather cleaning process.
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Q: How long will it take to clean my leather
A: Our goal is to have all garments processed in three days. Items
requiring repair may take longer.
Q: Will ink come out of leather?
A: Unfortunately no. The degree of success depends greatly on the type
of leather. We can sometimes disguise the area with specially
Top Grain: 80% success with possible shine to the area
Naked Skin: 50% success with possibility of disguising area
Suede: 30% success with stain still visible.
Q: The shoulders and sleeves of my jacket are turning a
lighter color. What can be done?
A: Sounds like you have a garment with a naked finish. You are
describing oxidation. Exposure to light and atmospheric gases can cause
leather dyes to oxidize. Check protected areas under collar to verify
this. This can be even more noticeable after cleaning. However,
finishes can be applied to disguise these areas, but the texture can
change with this approach.
Q: What's the best way to store my leather coat?
A: It would be best to store it in a climate controlled vault just like
a fur. This is not always possible. Store in a cool, well ventilated
area. Never store a leather garment in a plastic bag. If your leather
does develop mildew, in most cases this can be professionally cleaned
to remove the damage (depends on severity)
Q: I have a large tear in my jacket, can it be
A: Yes, and there are options. The tear could be simply sewn to prevent
more damage. A scar will be visible. Same would be true if a patch was
used. While more costly, a panel replacement is the best option. Every
effort is made to make skin color and texture.
Q: My jacket gets water spots when it rains. Can I prevent
A: First of all, wet garments should be allowed to dry naturally. Never
subject your garment to heat (hair dryer, clothes dryer, etc.) After
drying, use a very soft brush or high density sponge to raise the nap.
You could also apply a water & stain protector. Always follow the
instructions carefully. After cleaning, a professional leather cleaner
can also apply this protection upon request.
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